... but beguiling.
P.S. We know what a crémant d'Alsace is. It's a sparkling wine made in Alsace, France, a wine which cannot call itself champagne because it is not made precisely in Cham-pahn-yeh, etc. Or, as a very nice customer added helpfully the other day, when we were talking about Spanish sparkling wines (cavas), "Oh yes, I've heard that -- it's because it's not made in that part of Italy."