But, for a retail price of about $4 to $5, what a delightful wine. The pinot grigio is not a grape to go tiger shooting with (as historian Paul Johnson once remarked of British prime minister John Major) but this one happily possesses some virtues. It's less woody than its famed compatriot, Santa Margherita, and not as watery as many $5 California examples. It's simply light, reminiscent of an unripe peach barely dipped in a bit of low-cal caramel sauce with a peanut on top, that is if you close your eyes and concentrate really hard -- and its acidity is pleasantly palate-cleansing and thirst-quenching. If you find a bottle, dig out the wallet, or rather fish about in your pocket for loose change, and take the plunge. You won't be sorry.