2007 Preston of Dry Creek zinfandel

A zinfandel for grown ups. Slightly smoky and brambly, refined fruit, tannins and acids that cooperate civilly on your tongue. Very good.

Fruit- or market-basket metaphors? None quite fit. It is itself.

Noble or common? Noble, certainly. Masculine or feminine? Not quite either, yet .... A teenaged boy, on his way to becoming something interesting.

And organic. Mercy, perhaps I'll become a believer after all.

Retail, about $35.

Preston of Dry Creek (Healdsburg, CA -- Sonoma County).